- #Audio overload side by side install
- #Audio overload side by side manual
- #Audio overload side by side portable
- #Audio overload side by side series
The coaxial antenna jack is a low impedance (high current) connection, meant to go through coaxial cable many feet to a remote antenna tuner (they call it the booster) That would seem to make it very important to be common with the chassis. Also at the "message change prevention plug" jack, but that is little tracks. I didn't do this completely so don't take my words as gospel.Īnother thing I noticed is that the main ground from the board to the enclosure/chassis is 'massively' made at the coaxial antenna jack, the female F connector. Anyway, one can look at the bottom of the board and trace the ground copper from the rear panel jacks to the power supply ground point. It is a clue to the thoughts of the designer, and the technique is proper engineering. I do not suggest changing the ground system and do not think it is a cause of the problem. The power, audio, DC, and RF jacks are separated by some length of copper track, more or less, as they go to B. One thing I noticed is that the ground system is a star configuration. I took the board out and looked at the solder side. The hum was finally gone so far that it was barely audible in the silence in the audio input that it was satisfying. Perhaps it is some light oxidation, unseen, since the new unit had been sitting so long. I think a poor connection between the DC input jack and the power supply's DC plug could be a cause of the hum. Upon fiddling with the DC power plug, it changed. This told me that it was not the close-by radio being overloaded and thereby made to hum. The hum was there on a close-by AA5 tube radio and also on a large console in the back room. Sure enough, the hum was there, and more than enough to make it unusable for music. I just picked a Talking house 5.0 / TH5 on ebay. Directly plugging a personal device such as phone or even an old-school Walkman cassette player will come reasonably close to matching the recommended signal level. You don't say what type of cassette deck you have, but if it has RCA pin jack outputs they will be 5-10 times stronger than what is recommended and will require "padding" down. The other methods are time consuming and rendered ineffective as soon as anything is changed.Įdit: I saw a TH document suggesting that 150mv peak audio signals are a recommended optimum audio signal strength. Personally, I chose to orient cables and receivers to reduce the effects.
#Audio overload side by side install
Of course, you have to install such a system. It may help to connect the transmitter's metal chassis to a proper earth ground system, entirely separate from the AC safety ground.
#Audio overload side by side series
Inductors in series with audio lines, re-routing cables, grounded high quality EMI filters to plug the transmitter and audio sources into. Eliminating rf signal pickup through audio cables and power supply cables is a start. Many of us have this problem and there are multiple things to try. The direct signal dwarfs whatever re-radiation is happening.
#Audio overload side by side portable
I often note that the hum is nearly gone when a portable receiver is within a foot or two of the transmitter. By orienting the receiver, you can often find limited areas where the mains wiring version is much smaller, thus the hum is reduced. Your radio receives signals directly from the transmitter and hum-filled versions from house wiring. No matter how it gets onto the AC wiring, the signal is there modulated by the mains power and re-radiated. Some rf energy has a path to the AC wiring through your transmitter's power supply, and/or through the audio wirings back through your cassette deck into the mains wiring. Any wiring and/or electrical conduits behave as efficient antennas that intercept some energy from your transmitter and re-radiate it, just like your transmitter's antenna. If that is the case for you, then it is a sure sign the hum is not from the transmitter itself, or its power supply, but is instead a result of the transmitter signal interacting with your home's AC power wiring. Does the hum level change when you move your receiver around? A portable radio can be moved and oriented to "null out" the hum, or most of it. There can be multiple explanations that are difficult to diagnose from a distance. Regarding hum being received, that is a very different thing and probably why no one has answered your questions. Wire in a separate potentiomenter! That's probably what I would do as a quick fix. There is supposed to be an automatic level control to prevent overloading, but that is obviously not helping you. So, I don't have a clue how much level the input is able to handle before overloading.
#Audio overload side by side manual
I don't have a Talking House transmitter and its user manual does not give audio input specifications. Kramden, your idea to control level from you cassette deck to the transmitter is sensible.
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